LUNCH FOR THE MUTED SENSES
*TO BE TRANSLATED
コンセプト: MAKI UEDA
スープを蒸留して香りのみを抽出した「スープの香水」と匂い紙をみなさんに渡します。スープを煮る時に蓋を開けっ放しにした らどうなるかなどの話題と、スープと香水の共通点(トップノート/ミドルノート/ベースノート) などを5分くらいお話します。
私のオランダの義母は戦前の生まれで、彼女の台所を通して古き良き時代のオランダを垣間見る事が できます。私たちが遊びに行くと必ず待ち受けてくれている、美味しそうな台所の匂い・・・。彼女はよくリーキを使ったスープを作ってくれます。息子が3歳くらいの時、極端な野菜嫌いだったので すが、このスープだけは喜んで食していましたので、私たちはリーキのスープを「Oma Soep (= Grandma's Soup)」と呼ぶようになりました。匂いが記憶と感情と強く結びついているということ、 そして匂いは私たちに時間と空間を超えた体験をもたらしてくれること、などについてお話します。
配膳が終わってからまず、みなさんにお料理の匂いを嗅いでいただきます。その後、各プレートの ローズ・バスにお湯が注がれます。ローズとお料理の全体的な芳香を堪能してから、目隠しを外し、 フォークとナイフでいただきます。
ここでの主役は肉や魚ではなく、ローズの花びらです。 ローズ・バスにお湯がかけられると、ローズの香りが立ち上ります。ここではチキンは脇役。あたか もローズを鼻で味わうかのように、料理をいただきます。
この図からは、ローズに含まれる上位 10 位までの香気成分が一目でわかります。ある研究チームがあらゆる素材を分析し、共通する香気成分が見られたもの同士を線で結んだものです。 ローズの成分のひとつは、シャルドネなどの白ワイン・グループ(ローズから見て 0 時の方向)にも共通するため、そのグループと線でつながれています。また別な成分が、ボイルドチキンやベークド鴨肉(ローズから見て7時の方向)にも共通の成分であることが、線を辿るとわかります。この図にある全ての素材と相性が良いのが、ローズというわけです。
• 鶏もも肉 180g
• 紅茶ティーバッグ 1 袋
• シャルドネ 150ml
• グリーンアスパラ 3本
• ローズ 小さめの場合3本
鶏もも肉に塩こしょうをし、30 分なじませておく。ジップロックなど密閉できるような袋に鶏もも肉、紅茶ティーバッグ、シャルドネ、アスパラを入れ、sous-vide (真空調理法)で調理する。(専門書によると、鶏肉 180g の場合、推奨温度は 65 度、推奨時間は 20 分。)その間、ラズベリー果汁とブルーチーズを弱火にかけてソースを作る。sous-vide が終わったら、鶏肉を切ってアスパラと一 緒にお皿に盛り、バジルを盛り、ソースをかける。これをバラの花びらを散らしたお皿の真ん中に置き、配膳してから、ローズ・バスにお湯をかける。
そのためか、化学の視点から調理を再検討しようとする動きが 80 年代あたりからありました。90 年 代には、フランスの化学者エルベ・ティスが「モレキュラー・ガストロノミー」という題の論文を発表し、この言葉がガストロノミー界に定着しました。モレキュラーは分子を意味しますから、「分子の調理法」とでも訳したらよいのでしょうか。
OPEN SAUCES -TOKYO VERSION-
Conception: FoAM & Maki Ueda
Organization, Cooking: FISHGROVE Inc.
Date: November 21th, 2012
Place: FISHGROVE Inc. (Tokyo)
Special thanks to : Seiki Nakayama
Based on the OPEN SAUCE food art event held in Brussels, Maki Ueda showed its compact version of it in Tokyo in search for the boundary of tasting and smelling.
The theme is "mushroom", corresponding to the season.
We will enjoy the different phase of mushroom and thyme soup: gaseous, liquid, and solid (below zero degrees) state. We will observe the how we taste the same thing depending on the temperature and texture.
We serve bread, wine and dessert as well, so it's a complete dinner.
Edible soup perfume. The soup is distilled and the flavor is extracted. The gaseous phase of the soup.
The liquid state of the soup.
Main dish: Mushroom stoemp (Dutch traditional cooking)
Shiitake semifredo, with cognac perfume.
Referencial information where the recipe is based on: Flavor Pairing (www.flavorpairing.be)
Artist: MAKI UEDA (FoAM)
About Open Sauces
Open Sauces is a collection of projects, writings and events related to sharing of food, food culture and food systems. Although their format might change, these activities all combine tasting, socialising and learning. Open Sauces brings together people interested in both environmental and cultural and scientific and systemic aspects of cooking, eating and sharing food. We come together in members’ kitchens, in labs, studios and public spaces, keeping the source of our sauces and other culinary delights open for anyone interested in testing out our recipes or joining the Open Sauces Cooking Club.
The mixing of disciplines, of multicultural traditions and playful explorations that make up contemporary food culture can greatly benefit from openness and sharing. Akin to the open source movement in software development, the traditionally secretive world of food and cooking has already begun to benefit from demystifying the source of its ingredients and processes. This is leading to new perspectives on resilient food production. Furthermore, openness can stimulate home-cooks, healthier diets, better science and more inspiring dishes. Sharing knowledge can invigorate food preparation and consumption, as well as undoubtedly evoke other improvements that we can’t yet conceive of. By increasing the accessibility and transparency of food systems we can enhance their resilience, an essential trait in the face of unstable climatological and economic conditions.
- a technical and social food art event -
date: Nov. 22, 2008
concept, realization: FoAM
- open source & open sauces
- the sense of taste & the sense of smell
- food crisis, trading, logistics,
- future of the food etc.etc...
- Not to forget: to taste!
photos by: Alex Davies
FoAM and the Guild for Reality Integrators and Generators invite you to a synaesthetic dinner, to jointly sample, celebrate and debate the future of food.
Food is a nutritious and delectable product of our reciprocal, sustaining relationship with the environment. It is also one of the oldest cultural expressions, rooted in hospitality and sharing. As the gastronome Brilliat-Savarin noted three centuries ago, “the discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than the discovery of a new star.”
Open Sauces will unfold in a sequence of experimental courses, matched with drinks, improvised music and esteemed guests. While savouring the foods, the guests will be engaged in table conversations, sharing experiences, recipes and ingredients needed to demystify cultural, environmental, technical and ethical aspects of contemporary food systems. From molecular gastronomy to fair trade, from permaculture to food-tracking, from open source to open sauces, we will blend seemingly unrelated elements of our food chain. In an era riddled with environmental and cultural anomalies, these transdisciplinary and trans-local connections will become one of the keys to our survival, as individuals, communities and species.
With: Alexandra Deschamps-Sonsino, Kultivator, Sher Doruff, Maja Kuzmanovic, Alok Nandi, Sneha Solanki, Wietske Maas, Matteo Pasquinelli, Kate Rich, Femke Snelting, Andreas Strauss, Maki Ueda, Allison Zinder and other local and trans-local food experts and enthusiasts.
There are limited places for this event so please RSVP if you would like to attend.
The extended menu (in the form of a cookbook) is available online at http://opensauces.cc/open.sauces.pdf
Green Peas & Mint Soup
- gaseous <---- the perfume dish that I contributed
It was my role to give a toast for this course. (The toasts were related to the each course.) My toast:
If you pinch your nose when you eat, you wouldn't taste much flavors. The role of smell is quite crucial in cookery, because 70 % of tasting is said to be smelling. The rest 30 % is saltiness, sweetness, sourness, bitterness, umami, and some texture. The smell or aroma of the food comes in to the nose through the nose holes, but also from the back of the nose by chewing. Good test would be to chew the food with the mouth open. You wouldn't taste much. This transparent liquid in the perfume bottle is distilled green pea & mint soup. The aroma's of the soup is condensed and concentrated in this liquid. In other words, it's the same liquid that you can also find on the lid. Now, what happens if we don't close the pan when making a soup? You might find an answer in this perfume. You can spray it in your mouth.
OPEN SAUCES BOOK
A book that covers the whole evening of memorial dinner event Open Sauces is published.
download the electronic edition of the "Open Sauces" cookbook in PDF: http://opensauces.cc/open.sauces.pdf
- with full recipe of the evening
- with full recipe of Edible Perfume Workshop
- with full recipe of "green peas and mint soup - gaseous, fluid, solid -"
- it's a MUST have book for those who are interested in molecular gastronomy, food art, and cooking with scents in priority
From the introduction...
This book is designed as a collection of the “toasts” and their accompanying recipes from the Open Sauces dinner. It is a scrapbook – a “common-place book” in the parlance of earlier centuries – and a book of commons. Commons, a term denoting shared public resources, can be traced back to the sharing of provisions, of rationing limited amounts of foodstuffs to feed a whole community. Similarly, Open Sauces offers bite-sized morsels of diverse aspects of contemporary food culture – whether curious information, case studies, or specific techniques – to feed a diverse group of readers. The book also contains the recipes for the complete, seasonal Open Sauces menu, designed for twenty-five people. The recipes list the original amounts; however, as each course was quite small, the quantities cited in the recipes could be used for four to six people if served in a two or three course dinner. In several recipes the amounts are approximate, as this is the preferred method of cooking and sharing recipes at FoAM. The recipes and related texts are available online at http://opensauces.cc in editable form. Improvements, adaptations, comments, questions and suggestions are more then welcome. After all, Open Sauces should stay true to its title.
eau de parfum PERFECT JAPANESE WOMAN
- a perfume art for filling imaginations for a perfect Japanese woman -
perfume artwork, installation (2008)
This artwork consists of 4 fragrances. Like in a perfume shop, you are free to spray them on the paper strips, smell them, and even to wear them. After spraying, please allow 20 seconds until alcohol vaporizes completely, then enjoy the smell.
Each smell symbolizes how Japanese society expect women to be. All the essences are manually extracted from the natural (raw) materials with distillation method or alcohol extraction method by the artist.
No. 1 Nukamiso
- the scent of motherhood -
There is an expression about housewives in Japanese: "A woman that stinks like Nukamiso". It's an expression for the women who are so much stuck in the family life that they are not attractive as women anymore.
Nukamiso is salted rice-bran paste for making pickles. Every family used to have a bucket that looks like a sauerkraut barrel. The Nukamiso paste needs daily maintenance. Therefore the hands of the housewives used to stink pretty sour like Nukamiso . Mentioning such a smell was used as a metaphor for insulting housewives.
But that is slowly becoming the past. Nowadays, Nukazuke became something to buy at the supermarket, so no woman knows anymore how to make Nukazuke at home. In the near future women that stink like Nukamiso would not be seen with the traditional sense, but would be recognized as super feminine and sexy women! Don't be too late. When you serve Nukazuke to your husband, make sure that you spray this perfume on your hands, so that he thinks that you've made it yourself. This is the eternal scent for motherhood.
(It's a pickling paste made with rice bran. It smells like 'zaurkraut'. I used alcohol to extract the smell.)
No. 2 Tatami
- the scent of freshness as new tatami
A Japanese proverb says: "Wives and tatami's are better when they are new."
Tatami is the traditional Japanese carpet and floor woven from rush. The traditional house is made with tatami and shoji (rice paper doors and windows). New tatami is always preferred because it's clean and also giving the fresh and comforting smell of rush. However the smell disappears as time goes by. That has become a metaphor for a wife.
You would question: is it only a wife that is better when it's fresh? How about a husband then? Let's leave that question aside for a moment. If you want to feel fresher and younger as a woman, this perfume is ideal for you. It's the perfume for any generations.
* Most of the Japanese women give up their jobs and become pure housewives when they get married or when they get children.
(Japanese people make hard carpet with weaving this grass. The whole floor of Japanese house is made with this mat, so it's an important substance of Japanese house-smell. I used alcohol to extract the smell.)
No. 3 Miso Soup
- the scent of a woman in the kitchen -
A happy morning is to wake up with the sound of the kitchen and the smell of miso soup – that's the traditional image of a family. Japanese people eat a warm meal in the morning. Perhaps it has already become the past.
If you want to wake up your family with such an elegance, this perfume can help you. This Miso Soup Perfume can be used as a room spray. The family will wake up with the happiness resulting from the smell of Miso Soup.
This perfume is also useful for fooling the nose of your husband, in case you want to pretend that you've been working all day in the kitchen.
(It's a national soup made with miso, a fermented soy bean paste. I made the soup in the flask and extracted the smell with water distillation method.)
No. 4 Soap
- the scent of pureness and cleanness -
One of the most important morning rituals for Japanese high school girls is to wash their hair just to scent the hair with the smell of shampoo. If you don't have time to take a shower in the morning, you can scent your hair and your body with this perfume: the smell of the soap.
Japanese men prefer women that represent pureness and cleanness. Don't worry if you aren't. This perfume will also emphasize the attractive contrast in yourself.
* Japanese people like the smell of soap very much. Women often purchase perfumes that smell like a soap.
(I scraped a soap and extracted the smell with water distillation method.)
Gallery Roodkapje, Rotterdam (PREMIER), 09.2008.
Dutch Design Week, Eindhoven, 17-25.10.2009.
World Technology Network Award, New York, 07.2009.
Artists Summit Kyoto, Japan, 12.2009.
- body odour extracts of 7 dancers -
perfume art, for sale (2008)
comissioned by: world-wide known contemporary dance company Emio Greco | PC.
ABOUT "7 SMELLS"
7 Smells – an olfactive art project by Maki Ueda
On the request by EG | PC to distill the essence of the dance company, Ueda is exploring new ways in her olfactory research, for the first time using fabrics. On her part, the Japanese enriches the ever developing scent culture of the dance company. Her work forms a crucial step in the realization of a genuine perfume that will for the first time ever translate a choreographic concept into an essence.
For Maki Ueda, the starting point is the sweat of the dancers collected in the fabrics of the costumes by EG | PC designer Clifford Portier. The metaphor of the sweat is strongly intertwined with the essence of human movement. Portier's designs constitute active elements within the works of the choreographers where they even lead a life of their own: time and again they are worn until they are worn out. The sweat residues in the costume fabrics testify to the past exertions of the dancers, as scented fingerprints of spent energy.
The perception of the EG | PC scents commences a mental journey in time to that lost, evaporated moment of creation of a danced performance: the scents remind us of the energy that is involved in constructing a dance creation, or recalls to the present the physical exertions that occurred during the performances. Never concrete. After all, motion and scent share that elusive character. Limited edition
SOURCE OF THE BODY ODOUR
DANCE PERFORNANCE "HELL" BY EMIO GRECO | PC
PROCESS OF EXTRACTION
More documentations regarding development:
RELATED PUBLICATION: MAGAZINE "PURGATORIO"
7: risorgimento for purgatorio – magazine (EN/NL/FR)
Art director: Isabelle Vigier
With contributions by: Arnon Grunberg, Levi van Veluw, Maki Ueda, Gérard Mayen, Johan Reyniers, Bart Boone, Pasquale Martini and René van Peer.
Published by Emio Greco | PC in close cooperation with art director and artist, Isabelle Vigier.
Available in Dutch, English and French. ISBN 978-90-810813-4-4
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